Moss Gradient Circle Cardigan Free Pattern

Introduction

This Moss Gradient Circle Cardigan is a cozy, top-down cardigan that starts as a simple circle at the neck and grows outward in soft bands of green, fading from deep moss through olive, sage, and light moss to a pale lichen at the hem and sleeves. It is written for crocheters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to try their first seamless, circular-yoke garment. The extended single crochet fabric is smooth, drapey, and easy to wear, with a relaxed 44-inch chest that fits size L/XL. Because it is worked in one piece from the top down, there is no seaming and very little finishing, making it a satisfying project you can wear all season.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (4) acrylic or wool blend, 5 colors: A deep moss (300 yd), B olive (200 yd), C sage (200 yd), D light moss (200 yd), E pale lichen (200 yd)
• Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure
• Finished size: Chest circumference 44 inches, length 24 inches, sleeve length 18 inches (fits size L/XL)

Abbreviations

• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• esc — extended single crochet: insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one loop, yarn over, pull through both loops
• 2 esc in next st — work two extended single crochet stitches into the same stitch (an increase)

Gauge

14 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches in extended single crochet. Work a small swatch in esc and measure a 4-inch section in both directions; adjust your hook size if needed to match.

Tips Before You Start

• Turn after every round as written. This keeps the esc fabric even and prevents the spiral twist that can happen when working in the round without turning.
• Use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round so you can find your join easily, especially as the yoke grows from 12 to 216 stitches.
• Change colors at the end of the round before the new color round begins, and carry the old color loosely up the back if you prefer, or fasten off and rejoin for a cleaner edge.
• Try the yoke on as you go. The circle should sit flat around your shoulders before you divide for the body and sleeves.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Yoke (worked in rounds, turn after each round)

With A, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.

R1: ch 1, 12 esc in ring, join with sl st to first esc (12 sts).

R2: ch 1, 2 esc in each st around, join (24 sts).

R3: ch 1, [esc in next st, 2 esc in next st] around, join (36 sts).

R4: ch 1, [esc in next 2 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (48 sts).

R5: ch 1, [esc in next 3 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (60 sts). Change to B.

R6: ch 1, [esc in next 4 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (72 sts).

R7: ch 1, [esc in next 5 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (84 sts).

R8: ch 1, [esc in next 6 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (96 sts). Change to C.

R9: ch 1, [esc in next 7 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (108 sts).

R10: ch 1, [esc in next 8 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (120 sts).

R11: ch 1, [esc in next 9 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (132 sts). Change to D.

R12: ch 1, [esc in next 10 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (144 sts).

R13: ch 1, [esc in next 11 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (156 sts).

R14: ch 1, [esc in next 12 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (168 sts). Change to E.

R15: ch 1, [esc in next 13 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (180 sts).

R16: ch 1, [esc in next 14 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (192 sts).

R17: ch 1, [esc in next 15 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (204 sts).

R18: ch 1, [esc in next 16 sts, 2 esc in next st] around, join (216 sts). Do not fasten off. Yoke measures approximately 8 inches deep.

Divide for Body and Sleeves

Next round: ch 1, esc in first 32 sts (right front), skip next 44 sts (right sleeve), ch 6 for underarm, esc in next 64 sts (back), skip next 44 sts (left sleeve), ch 6 for underarm, esc in next 32 sts (left front), join with sl st to first esc (140 sts including underarm chains).

Body

Work even in rounds, turning after each round.

R1: ch 1, esc in each st and ch around, join (140 sts).

Repeat R1 until body measures 16 inches from underarm, ending after a wrong side round. Fasten off E.

Sleeves (make 2)

Join E to center of underarm chain.

R1: ch 1, esc in each st around underarm and sleeve, join (50 sts).

R2–R40: ch 1, esc in each st around, join (50 sts). Sleeve measures approximately 18 inches. Fasten off E.

Edging

With E, join to bottom right front corner. Work esc evenly up right front, around neck, down left front, and around bottom edge, join. Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

There is no seaming required because the cardigan is worked in one piece from the top down. Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side, using a tapestry needle and following the path of the stitches so the ends do not show. Block lightly by misting with water and pinning to the finished measurements (44-inch chest, 24-inch length, 18-inch sleeves), then let it dry flat. This helps the esc fabric relax and smooth out the color bands.

Pro Tips and Variations

• For a shorter cardigan, stop the body a few rounds early; for a longer one, add rounds before the edging.
• Swap the gradient for a single color, or use a self-striping yarn to create the fade without changing balls.
• Add a simple button or clasp at the top of the front opening if you prefer a closed neckline, or leave it open as designed.