Crochet Elegant Moss Stitch Sunglasses Case Free Pattern

Crochet Elegant Moss Stitch Sunglasses Case Free Pattern

Introduction

This elegant moss stitch sunglasses case is a perfect first project for anyone who wants to crochet something useful and beautiful. The moss stitch (also called the granite or linen stitch) creates a soft, woven-looking fabric with a subtle texture that looks far more complicated than it is — it's simply single crochet and chain stitches worked over and over. Worked in a calm sage green DK yarn, the case feels smooth and slightly dense, giving your sunglasses gentle protection while looking lovely on a shelf or in your bag. Finished with a triangular flap and a charming wooden button, it makes a thoughtful handmade gift too.

Materials Needed

• DK weight yarn, sage green: approximately 50 yards (one small skein is plenty)
• Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (US G/6)
• Wooden button, approximately 1 inch (25 mm) in diameter
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Finished size: approximately 3.5 inches wide by 7 inches tall when folded and seamed, to fit standard sunglasses

Abbreviations

• ch — chain: yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook.
• sc — single crochet: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
• st — stitch.
• sl st — slip stitch: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time.
• sc2tog — single crochet 2 stitches together (a decrease): insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.
• ch-1 sp — chain-1 space: the small gap under a chain from the previous row.

Gauge

16 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in moss stitch pattern. To check, crochet a small swatch in pattern and measure a 4-inch section; exact gauge is not critical, but it affects the finished size.

Tips Before You Start

• Keep your chain-1 spaces loose and even — the moss stitch looks best when the chains are not pulled tight.
• Count your stitches at the end of each row; the stitch count alternates between rows, so a quick count keeps the texture neat.
• Choose a smooth, tightly spun DK yarn so the case stays firm and protects the lenses.
• Try the case around your sunglasses before sewing on the button so you can place the loop and button exactly where they close comfortably.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Base (worked flat, then folded and seamed to form the case)

Setup: Ch 31.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (30 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, *ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st; repeat from * across. Turn. (15 sc, 15 ch-1 sps)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, skip the next sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across, ending with a sc in the last st. Turn. (16 sc, 14 ch-1 sps)

Rows 4–56: Repeat Row 3 until the piece measures approximately 14 inches from the beginning. Fasten off. (This length allows the piece to be folded in half to create a case about 7 inches tall.)

Folding and Seaming

Step 1: Fold the base piece in half with right sides together, matching the short ends (the starting chain edge and the final row). The fold will be at the bottom of the case.

Step 2: Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch or slip stitch the two side edges together, leaving the top edge open. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Step 3: Turn the case right side out.

Flap (worked in moss stitch to match the body)

Setup: With the case oriented so the opening is at the top, join yarn at one corner of the top edge (the back side of the case, opposite the side where the button will be).

Row 1: Ch 1, work 30 sc evenly across the top edge (one sc in each stitch or row end along the edge). Turn. (30 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, *ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st; repeat from * across. Turn. (15 sc, 15 ch-1 sps)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, skip the next sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across, ending with a sc in the last st. Turn. (16 sc, 14 ch-1 sps)

Row 4 (decrease): Ch 1, sc2tog over the first sc and the next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, skip the next sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, sc2tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last sc. Turn. (28 sts)

Rows 5–16: Repeat Row 4, decreasing 2 sts each row, until 2 sts remain. Fasten off and weave in ends. The flap will naturally form a triangle.

Button Loop

Step 1: Cut a length of yarn about 12 inches long. Fold it in half to create a loop.

Step 2: Attach the loop to the center of the flap's pointed tip: insert the crochet hook through the tip, pull the folded loop through, then pull the yarn ends through the loop and tighten to secure. Alternatively, ch 10, sl st to form a loop, and sew it securely to the tip.

Step 3: Knot the ends securely on the inside of the flap and weave in.

Finishing

Step 1: Fold the flap down over the front of the case to determine button placement. The button should be centered horizontally and positioned so that the loop fits over it comfortably.

Step 2: Sew the wooden button securely onto the front of the case at the marked position.

Step 3: Use the button loop to close the flap over the button.

Your sunglasses case is complete and ready to use!

Assembly and Finishing

Seam the side edges of the folded base with a neat whipstitch or slip stitch, working through both layers so the case is secure and the opening stays clean. Weave in every yarn end on the wrong side, threading each tail through a few stitches before trimming. Gently steam-block the finished case: mist it lightly with water, shape it flat with the flap closed, and let it dry completely. Blocking settles the moss stitch texture and helps the flap lie smoothly over the front.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Make a matching set in different colors — one for each pair of sunglasses — using the same button style for a cohesive look.
• For a firmer, more protective case, work the base with a slightly smaller hook (3.5 mm) while keeping the flap on the 4.0 mm hook.
• Swap the wooden button for a smooth resin or shell button, or add a tiny fabric lining sewn inside the case for extra lens protection.